K2 The second highest mountain on Earth

 

K2 The second highest mountain

Introduction about K2:

 K2 is the second highest mountain on earth. K2, at 8,611
meters (28,251 ft) above sea level, is the second highest mountain on Earth after Mount Everest at 8,849 meters (29,032 ft). It is located in the Karakoram mountain range, partly in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir and partly in the Chinese-administered Trans-Karakoram region of Taxkurgan Tajik Autonomous Prefecture in Xinjiang.K2 also became known as Savage Mountain after George Bell - one of the climbers on the 1953 US expedition - told reporters: "It's a monster mountain that's trying to kill you." Among the five highest mountains in the world, K2 is the deadliest. About one person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit. Sometimes known as Mount Godwin-Austin, other nicknames for K2 are King of the Mountains and Mountaineer's Mountain, as well as the mountain after prominent Italian mountaineer Reinhold Meissner named his book on K2 after the same thing. Off the Mountains are.Although Mount Everest is higher, climbing K2 is more difficult and dangerous, partly because of its northern location, where stormy weather is more common. The peak was first reached by Italian climbers Lino Licidelli and Achille Campagnoni in 1954 in an Italian expedition led by Ardito Decio. As of February 2021, only 377 people have reached the summit of K2. 91 deaths have occurred during climbing attempts.Most climbing takes place during July and August, usually the hottest times of the year. But in January 2021, K2 became the last eight-thousander to be climbed in winter. This feat of climbing was accomplished by a team of Nepalese mountaineers led by Nirmal Purja and Mangama Gyalji Sherpas.K2 has now climbed almost all of its summits, but unlike the other eight thousand mountains, it has never climbed its east face.

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 Name

The name K2 is derived from the notation used by the Great Trigonometric Survey of British India. Thomas Montgomery conducted the first survey of the Karakoram from Mount Haramukh, about 210 km (130 mi) south, and mapped the two most prominent peaks as K1 and K2, where K stands for Karakoram. The trigonometric survey had to use the local names of the mountains where possible, and it was found that K1 was known locally as Mashrabram. However, it seems that K2 never acquired a local name, perhaps due to its remoteness. The mountain cannot be seen from Askole, one of the highest settlements on the mountain pass, nor from the nearest settlement to the north. K2 can only be seen passing through the end of the Baltoro Glacier, which only a few locals will venture beyond. The name Chogori, derived from two Latin words, chogo ("big") and re ("mountain") (cogori), has been suggested as a local name, but there is little evidence of its widespread use. It may be a compound name invented by Western explorers or "What's his name?" was just a confused answer to the question. However, it forms the basis of the traditional Chinese pinyin name for Qogyir: QiáogēlƐ Fēng) by which Chinese authorities officially refer to the peak. Other local names have been suggested, including Lamba Bahar ("tall mountain" in Urdu) and Dipsing, but these are not widely used. As the mountain did not have a local name, the name Mount Godwin Austin was suggested in honor of Henry Godwin. Austin, one of the first explorers of the area. Although the name was rejected by the Royal Geographical Society, it has been used on many maps and is still occasionally used. Thus the surveyor's mark, K2, is still the name by which the mountain is commonly known. It is now also used in the Balti language, rendered as Kechu or Ketu (Balti: ک کو Urdu: ک تو). Italian mountaineer Fusco Marini, in his account of his ascent of Gasherbrum 4, argued that although the name K2 may have originated from chance, its truncated, impersonal nature is too appropriate for a mountain so remote and remote. is challenging. He concluded that:

just the bare bones of a name, all rock and ice and storm and abyss. It makes no attempt to sound human. It is atoms and stars. It has the nakedness of the world before the first man—or of the cindered planet after the last.

Geographical setting

K2 is located in the northwest of the Karakoram mountain range. It is located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Baltistan region of Pakistan and Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous Prefecture in Xinjiang, China. The Taram Sedimentary Basin is bounded by the Range to the north and the Lesser Himalayas to the south. Meltwater from glaciers, such as those south and east of K2, feeds agriculture in the valleys and contributes significantly to the regional freshwater supply. K2 ranks 22nd in topographic importance, a measure of a mountain's autonomous status. It is part of the same extended elevation zone (including the Karakoram, the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayas) as Mount Everest, and it is possible to walk from K2 to Everest on a route that is at least 4,594 meters (15,072 ft) high. ), at Kora La on the Nepal–China border in Mustang Lo. Few other peaks are more independent than K2. However, it is the most prominent peak of the Karakoram range. K2 is distinguished by its local relief as well as its overall height. It is more than 3,000 meters (9,840 ft) above most of the glacial valley floor at its base. It is a steep pyramid, which falls precipitously in almost all directions. The northern side is the steepest: it rises to over 3,200 meters (10,500 ft) above the K2 (Kogir) glacier in just 3,000 meters (9,800 ft) of horizontal distance. In most directions, it achieves less than 4,000 m (13,000 ft) of vertical relief of more than 2,800 m (9,200 ft). A 1986 expedition led by George Wallerstein made an inaccurate measurement that showed K2 was taller than Mount Everest, and therefore the highest mountain in the world. An accurate measurement was made in 1987, but by then the claim that K2 was the world's tallest mountain had already appeared in numerous news reports and references.

Height

The elevation of K2 shown on maps and encyclopedias is 8,611 meters (28,251 ft). In the summer of 2014, a Pakistani-Italian expedition to K2 called "K2 60 Years Later" was organized to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of K2. One of the objectives of the mission was to accurately measure the height of the mountain using satellite navigation. The height of K2 during this expedition was 8,609.02 meters (28,244.8 ft).

Geology

The K2 and Broad Peak Mountains, and the area west to the base of the Serpo-Lago Glacier, are composed of metamorphic rocks, known as the K2 Gneiss, and are part of the Karakoram Metamorphic Complex. K2 Gneiss consists of a mixture of orthogneiss and paragneiss rich in biotite. On the south and southeast face of K2, the orthogneiss consists of a mixture of strongly foliated plagioclase-hornblende gneiss and biotite-hornblende-K-feldspar orthogneiss, intruded by leucogranite dikes of garnet and mica. In places, the paraganese includes clinopyroxene hornblende-bearing pesimite, garnet (gross) diopside marble, and biotite-graphite-phyllite. Near the memorial to the climbers who died on K2, above base camp on the South Spur, there is a thin igneous marble with quartzite and mica schist, known as the Gilky-Puchoz sequence, embedded within the orthogneisses. On the western flank of Broad Peak and the southern flank of K2, lamprophyre dikes containing clinopyroxene, phygsite, and biotite porphyrite intrude the K2 gneiss. The K2 Gneiss is separated from the surrounding sedimentary and metamorphic rocks of the Karakoram Metamorphic Complex by normal faults. For example, this fault separates the K2 gneisses of K2's eastern face from the limestones and shales that comprise the nearby Skiang Kangri. 40Ar/39Ar ages of 115 to 120 million years ago were obtained from geochemical analyzes of the K2 Gneiss, which showed it to be a metamorphosed, older, Cretaceous, pre-collision granite. The granitic precursors (protoliths) of the K2 Gneiss resulted from the production of large bodies of magma by the northward subduction zone along what was then the continental margin of Asia and their intrusion as batholiths into the lower continental crust. . . During the initial collision of the Asia and India plates, this granitic batholith was buried to a depth of about 20 km (12 mi) or more, highly metamorphosed, severely deformed, and partially resurfaced during the Eocene. was melted. Later, the K2 Gneiss was intruded by leucoranite dikes and eventually exhumed and uplifted along major faults occurring during the post-Miocene. The K2 Gneiss was exposed when the entire K2-Broad Peak-Gasherbrum group underwent rapid uplift that could not keep up with the rate of erosion.

Date of ascension

Early attempts

This mountain was first discovered in 1856 by a British team. Team member Thomas Montgomery named Mount "K2" as the second peak of the Karakoram range. The other peaks were initially named K1, K3, K4 and K5, but were eventually named Mashrabram, Gashibram IV, Gasharbaram II and Gasharbaram I respectively. In 1892, Martin Conway led a British expedition that reached Concordia on the Baltoro Glacier. The first serious attempt to climb K2 was made in 1902 by Oskar Eckenstein, Aleister Crowley, Jules Jacquot-Guillermoud, Heinrich Pfenli, Victor Weiss. By Guy Knowles Northeast Ridge. In the early 1900s, modern transportation did not exist in the region. It took fourteen days to reach the foot of the mountain. After five serious and costly attempts, the team reached 6,525 meters (21,407 ft), although given the difficulty of the challenge and the lack of modern climbing equipment or weatherproof clothing, Crowley's statement that "neither man nor Neither beast was hurt” is a relatively understated statement. . Climbing skills. The failures were also attributed to illness (Crowley was suffering from the residual effects of malaria), questionable fitness, personality conflicts, and bad weather during his 68 days on K2 (the longest time on record at the time). held at such altitude) only eight provided clear weather. The next expedition to K2, in 1909, led by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of Abruzzi, reached about 6,250 meters on the southeast spur, now called the Abruzzi Spur (or Abruzzi Ridge). It would eventually become part of the standard route, but was abandoned at the time due to its stiffness and difficulty. After failing to find a possible alternative route on either the west flank or the northeast flank, Duke declared that K2 would never be climbed, and the team turned their attention to Chogolisa, where Duke climbed the 150 m (490 ft ) reached within . At the peak before the storm subsides.

Good luck and repeat

The 1954 Italian expedition finally succeeded

in summiting K2 via the Abruzzi spur on 31 July 1954. The expedition was led by Ardito Dizio and the two climbers who reached the summit were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Campanone. The team also included a Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Attaullah, who had participated in the American campaign in 1953. The campaign also featured Walter Bonatti and Pakistani Hunza porter Amir Mehdi, both of whom played a major role in the success of the campaign. Oxygen tanks take La Cedelli and Compagnoni to an altitude of 8,100 meters (26,600 ft). The ascent was controversial because Lacedelli and Compagnoni originally camped at a higher altitude than agreed with Mahdi and Bonati. It was too dark to ascend or descend, and Mahdi and Bonati were forced to spend the night at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters (26,000 ft) without shelter, and had to empty their oxygen tanks as requested during their descent. left Bonati and Mehdi survived, but Mehdi was hospitalized for several months and had to have his toes amputated due to frostbite. In the 1950s there were later attempts to suppress these facts to protect the reputation of Lacedelli and Campanoni as Italy's national heroes. It was also revealed that Camp's move was deliberate, a move apparently because Campagnoni feared he would back away from the younger Bonati. Bonati was blamed for Mehdi's hospitalization.

On 9 August 1977, 23 years after the Italian expedition, Ichiro Yoshizawa became the first local Pakistani climber to make a second successful ascent with Ashraf Aman. The Japanese expedition captured the Abruzzi Spur and employed over 1,500 porters.

The third ascent of K2 was in 1978, on a new route, on the long, cratered northeast ridge. The upper part of the road runs along the left eastern face to avoid the vertical wall and joins the upper part of the Abruzzi Via. The climb was made by an American team led by James Whittaker. In the summit party were Louis Reichardt, Jim Wickwire, John Rosecly and Rick Ridgway. Wickwire stands about 150 meters (490 ft) below the summit, one of the highest in history. The climb was an emotional one for the American team, as they found themselves completing a mission begun by the 1938 team forty years earlier.Another notable Japanese ascent was the difficult North Ridge on the Chinese side of the peak in 1982. The Japan Mountaineering Association team, led by Isao Shinka and Masatsugo Konishi, fielded three members: Nao Sakashita, Hiroshi Yoshino and Yukihiro Yanagisawa. At the summit on August 14. However, Yanagisawa fell to his death during the landing. Four other members of the team reached the summit the next day. The first climber to reach the summit of K2 twice was the Czech climber Josef Rakontzen. Riconchai was a member of the 1983 Italian expedition led by Francesco Santon that made the second successful ascent of the North Ridge (July 31, 1983). Three years later, on July 5, 1986, he climbed the Abruzzi Spur (Broad Peak's lone western double summit) as a member of the international Agostino da Pollenza expedition. The first woman to climb K2 was Polish climber Wanda Rytkiewicz on 23 June. 1986: Lillian and Maurice Berard, who had ascended later that day, collapsed during the descent. Lillian Berard's body was found at the base of the South Face on July 19, 1986.

In 1986, two Polish expeditions reached the summit with new routes, the Magic Line and the Polish Line (Jerzy Kokoczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski). Piotrowski fell to his death as the two descended. Thirteen climbers from several expeditions died in the 1986 KK tow disaster. Six more climbers died in the 1995 tow disaster, while eleven climbers died in the 2008 tow disaster.